I own and use OM System OM-1 Mark I, and every photograph in this guide was made with my own macro equipment. This is the setup I use to move progressively from standard 1:1 macro photography to substantially higher magnification.
My starting point is the OM-1 with the M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro lens. I can then add 26mm JJC extension tubes, the Raynox DCR-250 close-up lens, or both accessories together. Each addition brings me closer to the subject, but it also makes focusing, lighting and depth of field more demanding.
This guide shows what each stage contributes and the kind of results I have obtained in real use.
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My Olympus OM-1 macro setup at a glance
- OM System OM-1 Mark I camera
- M.Zuiko Digital ED 60mm F2.8 Macro lens
- JJC extension tubes with a combined extension of 26mm
- Raynox DCR-250 close-up conversion lens
- Godox TT600 flash when additional light is required
The most practical way to understand this system is to build it in stages. The 60mm macro lens is already capable on its own. Extension tubes increase magnification by moving the lens farther from the camera sensor, while the Raynox acts as a powerful close-up lens at the front. Combining both accessories produces the most demanding version of the setup.

Why I use the OM-1 for macro photography
The original OM System OM-1 is a digital Micro Four Thirds camera, not the classic Olympus OM-1 film camera from the 1970s. Its in-camera Focus Stacking function is one of the main reasons it suits my macro work.
At close focusing distances, depth of field becomes extremely shallow. Focus Stacking allows the camera to capture a sequence at different focus distances and combine compatible frames into a JPEG with more of the subject in focus. Movement can still cause alignment problems or artefacts, so the technique works best when the subject and camera remain reasonably stable.
I explain this feature, together with Pro Capture and High-Res Shot, in my separate real-world OM-1 review.
Stage 1: OM-1 with the M.Zuiko 60mm Macro lens

The M.Zuiko 60mm F2.8 Macro is the foundation of this setup. It reaches true 1:1 reproduction without additional accessories and provides enough working distance for flowers, insects and other small subjects. The lens also retains autofocus and electronic aperture control because it is designed directly for the Micro Four Thirds system.
For many situations, the camera and 60mm lens are all I need. This simpler configuration is easier to handle, offers more working distance than the higher-magnification combinations and admits more light. It is therefore the best place to begin before adding tubes or a close-up conversion lens.
The following photographs were made with the OM-1 and M.Zuiko 60mm combination:




Advantages of the 60mm lens on its own
- The simplest and lightest version of the setup
- True macro capability without extra glass or extension
- Better working distance than the more extreme combinations
- Easier focusing and composition
- A practical choice for moving insects and handheld work
Stage 2: Adding 26mm JJC extension tubes
Extension tubes contain no optical elements. They fit between the camera and lens, increasing the lens-to-sensor distance so that the lens can focus closer. This increases magnification, but the normal infinity focus is lost while the tubes are installed.
My JJC tubes provide a combined extension of 26mm. They are useful when 1:1 is not enough and I want a small subject to occupy more of the frame. Because the working distance becomes shorter and less light reaches the sensor, accurate focusing and controlled illumination become increasingly important.
Check the JJC extension tubes on Amazon.

What changes when extension tubes are fitted?
- Magnification increases and smaller details fill the frame.
- The available focusing range becomes much narrower.
- The front of the lens must move closer to the subject.
- Effective light is reduced, making flash or another controlled light source more useful.
- Camera movement and focus errors become more visible.
The fly below demonstrates the additional reach of the 60mm lens with extension tubes:

This level of magnification is useful for insect features, textures and small structures that are difficult to emphasise at ordinary close-focusing distances. The trade-off is that composition becomes less forgiving and depth of field is extremely limited.

Stage 3: Adding the Raynox DCR-250
The Raynox DCR-250 is a close-up conversion lens that mounts in front of the main lens through its snap-on adapter. Unlike extension tubes, it introduces additional optical elements. Its strength is that it can be attached or removed quickly, making it a flexible way to increase magnification in the field.

View the Raynox DCR-250 on Amazon.
On the M.Zuiko 60mm Macro lens, the Raynox makes small subjects appear significantly larger in the frame. It also narrows the usable focusing range. At this point, moving the camera slightly forward and backward can be more practical than relying entirely on autofocus.
Using extension tubes and the Raynox together
Combining the 26mm extension tubes with the Raynox DCR-250 produces the highest magnification of the configurations shown here. This is the setup I use when I want to reveal details that the 60mm lens alone cannot show at the same scale.

The additional magnification comes with practical costs:
- Working distance is very short.
- Depth of field may be only a thin slice of the subject.
- Small vibrations become obvious.
- Good light is essential.
- A moving subject can make a focus stack difficult or impossible.
- Finding and framing the subject takes more patience.
The mushroom photograph below shows the kind of small surface detail this complete setup can reveal:

Lighting and focusing at high magnification
As magnification increases, light becomes one of the main limitations. A flash can freeze small movements and allow a lower ISO or smaller aperture, but the light should be softened to avoid harsh reflections. I use the Godox TT600 as part of my macro kit; my separate Godox TT600 review covers the flash in more detail.
Focus Stacking can extend the visible sharpness of a static or slow-moving subject, but it cannot remove all movement problems. Wind, a walking insect or slight camera movement can create areas that do not combine cleanly. For live subjects, a carefully focused single frame may sometimes be the more realistic result.

Which version of the setup should you use?
- OM-1 and 60mm Macro: best for general macro photography, moving insects and easier handheld composition.
- 60mm plus extension tubes: useful when you need more magnification without adding glass in front of the lens.
- 60mm plus Raynox DCR-250: quick to attach and remove when you want to move between normal macro and stronger close-ups.
- 60mm, tubes and Raynox together: best reserved for very small subjects and deliberate high-magnification work.
Final verdict after using this OM-1 macro setup
The M.Zuiko 60mm lens is the most versatile part of this combination and is capable of excellent macro work by itself. The JJC extension tubes and Raynox DCR-250 should be seen as specialised additions rather than accessories that must remain attached all the time.
Building the setup progressively makes it easier to match the magnification to the subject. I begin with the 60mm lens and add the tubes or Raynox only when the photograph genuinely requires more reach. The full combination is powerful, but its very narrow focus range and short working distance demand patience, stable technique and carefully controlled light.
For my own macro photography, the OM-1โs Focus Stacking function and the flexibility of this modular setup make an effective combination. More magnification is not automatically a better photograph, but having these options allows me to choose the right tool for the detail I want to show.
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